1910-1920

 As the new silhouette dramatically changed fashion, Paul Poiret became the most exciting couturier up to the first world war.   

Poiret created the hobble skirt and between 1900 and 1914 many women adapted Poiret's design. The slim silhouette was then complimented by large hats. 

Suffragettes

This was a movement for women's suffrage in the united kingdom and this was coined by the daily mail as a label for the members during the late 19th and early 20th century.  

 In 1912 the suffragettes turned to a more militant way of protesting and began chaining themselves to railings. 
The suffragettes worn mainstream fashion garments but did opt for wearing purple, white and green as these signified dignity, purity and hope.




Menswear

Men were expected to have large wardrobes and dress appropriately whilst keeping up with fashion trends. However slowly the clothing became less formal and the lounge suit became popular. 
London's Savile Row and Bond Street became the place to visit as British tailoring was considered the best in the world and wealthy people shopped at the famous established tailors along them. 
This period of time saw the decline of the top hat, which from 1914 was only worn at formal occasions. 
Smoking jackets were more widely worn and the soft fabrics, with embellished cuffs allowed the wearer to relax.  





World War I

This created massive changes in fashion, fabrics and manufacturing. In 1914 when Germany declared war on France, Paris fashion week was already in preparation and although France was at war the event went ahead. 
 However the high society began to be effected by war, people could no longer afford luxury couture and because many couturiers were men they signed up for the service, this left women in charge.
Because America did not enter the war until 1917 they supported many of the french fashion houses. Although the war created setbacks Paris kept its title as the forefront of fashion despite challenge from american talent. 
France's latest fashion styles still created great interest around the world, and in 1916 Conde Nast launched a British edition of Vogue to boost morale and create more interest in fashion during the war.

The silhouettes didnt change much through this period remained column like with layered skirts, peplums and drapes.
In 1915 some designers used military influences to design their collections this was mainly colours and shape, khaki wa very popular.
Tailored jackets and suits with waist belts were very fashionable.
The hobble skirt became sofetr and flared with pleats or tiered layers, by 1916 hemlines rose and practicality was important.
Clothing that needed detailed cleaning and pressing was soon modified due to a shortage of domestic labour.
 Daywear became very important and people no longer embraced the playfulness of evening dresses.

Gabrielle Chanel

Chanel was initially a milliner and opened her own store in 1913 in Deauville. She did the most to transform wartime dress and made her money selling to rich refugees escaping wartime Paris. This enabled her to open a couture house in Biaritz in 1915.



Chanel's sporty wartime clothes were simple two piece jersey outfits were the vitue of simplicity.
Previously Jersey had been used in sportswear and underwear for men, Chanel made this material the height of fashion.


Women loved her clothes and this meant that manufacturers were quick to copy her styles.

From 1916 increasing number of men joined the forces and more women entered the work forces and these jobs required practical clothing.
Women adopted men's styles creating a new approach to working clothing.
More practical bust bodices were worn, they were now used to support the body and not shape it. In 1916 the bra was developed out of the bust bodice.

Beyond the War

After the war France continued to lead the fashion industry and a huge demand for wedding dresses gave the fashion industry a boost, giving couture houses a roaring trade.
In 1921 Chanel became the first fashion designer to put her name to a perfume both designing the bottle and the scent and Chanel No 5 was launched.



     

1900-1910

The period of time between 1900 and the first world war was named "Belle Époque", this meaning beautiful era, it was a period of discovery and optimism, mainly the industrial revolution. 

To celebrate the achievements of the 19th century, and to promote development into the 20th century Paris held a world fair, "Paris Expo Universelle" in which the Eiffel tower was built as an entrance arch.  

Fashion was beginning to move into readily available clothing, department stores like debenhams and harrods stocked ready-to-wear clothes. 

Paris was the forefront of fashion and many designers took their inspiration from Parisian Couturiers, Poiret, Vionnet and Worth.

The silhouettes of the beginning of the 20th century changed dramatically.

Corsets:

Heavy, restrictive, uncomfortable and erotic. Corsets were a major fashion item from the end of the 19th century to the beginning of the 20th. Bustles were also a major part of wearing corsets, they were used to accentuate the bottom and hips. This was called the 'S' bend corset. 

Accessories were also worn in conjunction with corsets, stockings and suspenders, often with decorated ankles.

Classes

Class was a major part of the beginning of the 20th century and people dressed accordingly. 

- wealthy people wore made to measure couture garments, women were encouraged to change at least 4 times a day (morning, afternoon, tea and evening). Many wealthy people also had sportswear especially for certain sports. Tea dresses were the only time women were able to take off there corsets, tea dresses were unstructured, soft and light.

- middle classes often made their own clothes, paper patterns were readily available. as well as department stores offering patterns and dressmakers. 

- lower classes relied on second hand clothes or hand me downs. 

- servants were expected to wear black.

Because of the industrial revolution sweated industries became a major part of the British business industry. The demand for 'ready-to-wear' garments created a growth in manufacture, that depended mainly on unregulated sweat shops. Many people were paid on a piecework basis and were paid very poor wages, this meant they lived in very poor living conditions, were undernourished often ill.

Liberty

A minority of women went against mainstream fashion and opted with individualistic styles. Many belonged to artistic circles such as writers, philosophers, and intellectuals.

'Liberty', the London Regent shop was popular for those who wanted clothes and fabrics that were against the fashions.

Fashion Magazines

Fashion publications meant that those wanting to keep up with fashion were able to easily see what was on trend as well as buying post cards and cigarette cards. This broke down class barriers.

Towards the end of the decade silhouettes began to change dramatically, emerging from the culture and talents within the arts in Paris.

The Ballet Russes's founder Serge Diaglev put on an exhibition of Russian art including a performance of Cleopatra in brightly coloured soft clothing. In 1911 the Russian ballet performed in London, having a large effect on the artistic society.

Paul Poiret

Paul Poiret led the movement away from the 'S' shape garments, corsets and bustels and into a long empire line, floating silhouette. Some people believe "he was personally responsible for releasing women from the tyranny of corsets."

1911

Pioneered by a mixture of health professionals, Poiret, Liberty and Diaglev the tea dress had evolved into an evening dress and straight vertical lines and high waists were in fashion.