1900-1910

The period of time between 1900 and the first world war was named "Belle Époque", this meaning beautiful era, it was a period of discovery and optimism, mainly the industrial revolution. 

To celebrate the achievements of the 19th century, and to promote development into the 20th century Paris held a world fair, "Paris Expo Universelle" in which the Eiffel tower was built as an entrance arch.  

Fashion was beginning to move into readily available clothing, department stores like debenhams and harrods stocked ready-to-wear clothes. 

Paris was the forefront of fashion and many designers took their inspiration from Parisian Couturiers, Poiret, Vionnet and Worth.

The silhouettes of the beginning of the 20th century changed dramatically.

Corsets:

Heavy, restrictive, uncomfortable and erotic. Corsets were a major fashion item from the end of the 19th century to the beginning of the 20th. Bustles were also a major part of wearing corsets, they were used to accentuate the bottom and hips. This was called the 'S' bend corset. 

Accessories were also worn in conjunction with corsets, stockings and suspenders, often with decorated ankles.

Classes

Class was a major part of the beginning of the 20th century and people dressed accordingly. 

- wealthy people wore made to measure couture garments, women were encouraged to change at least 4 times a day (morning, afternoon, tea and evening). Many wealthy people also had sportswear especially for certain sports. Tea dresses were the only time women were able to take off there corsets, tea dresses were unstructured, soft and light.

- middle classes often made their own clothes, paper patterns were readily available. as well as department stores offering patterns and dressmakers. 

- lower classes relied on second hand clothes or hand me downs. 

- servants were expected to wear black.

Because of the industrial revolution sweated industries became a major part of the British business industry. The demand for 'ready-to-wear' garments created a growth in manufacture, that depended mainly on unregulated sweat shops. Many people were paid on a piecework basis and were paid very poor wages, this meant they lived in very poor living conditions, were undernourished often ill.

Liberty

A minority of women went against mainstream fashion and opted with individualistic styles. Many belonged to artistic circles such as writers, philosophers, and intellectuals.

'Liberty', the London Regent shop was popular for those who wanted clothes and fabrics that were against the fashions.

Fashion Magazines

Fashion publications meant that those wanting to keep up with fashion were able to easily see what was on trend as well as buying post cards and cigarette cards. This broke down class barriers.

Towards the end of the decade silhouettes began to change dramatically, emerging from the culture and talents within the arts in Paris.

The Ballet Russes's founder Serge Diaglev put on an exhibition of Russian art including a performance of Cleopatra in brightly coloured soft clothing. In 1911 the Russian ballet performed in London, having a large effect on the artistic society.

Paul Poiret

Paul Poiret led the movement away from the 'S' shape garments, corsets and bustels and into a long empire line, floating silhouette. Some people believe "he was personally responsible for releasing women from the tyranny of corsets."

1911

Pioneered by a mixture of health professionals, Poiret, Liberty and Diaglev the tea dress had evolved into an evening dress and straight vertical lines and high waists were in fashion.